Forum
how big is to big
how big is to big to paddle out, outside your comfort zone,maybe your local,or a new spot where fear takes over your body and a 2 hour sesh is only maybe 2 or 3 waves at most,and how do you over come fear,or at times thought how the hell i get back to shore without the beatdown and hold down cheers,
Im ok in 6-8ft, only gone out in 10ft a handful of times... all depends on the paddle and the take-off zone... I reckon a dry-haired paddle out to a peak that broke in the same spot no matter what size... Ill give it a nudge up to 12... maybe 15ft if the takeoff was not full on...
hard to say so many variables in surfing... nice thread Troll.
what battery said
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Negative thinking, positive doing
*edited 24 Jan 2013 16:36
Originally posted by: Batteryta battery yea i think what ive read on hear over time, you can back up that size thats huge waves there man,do you fear 8foot plus or just back your knowledge of the ocean,
Im ok in 6-8ft, only gone out in 10ft a handful of times... all depends on the paddle and the take-off zone... I reckon a dry-haired paddle out to a peak that broke in the same spot no matter what size... Ill give it a nudge up to 12... maybe 15ft if the takeoff was not full on...
I fear it all right... but the rewards out weigh the pain if the conditions are clean.... like I said 8-10 ft is the biggest ive been out in... thats small to what is out there if you want it...
Originally posted by: toastertrue toaster..
what battery said
Feel the fear and do it anyway.
Total commitment is what is required at size.
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Local at nowhere, eternal blow in.
And I dont want it.... I love bowling 3 ft the best... still get barrels and hit the lip.
Originally posted by: Batterywhen once when you were single, but now you have a family does that change your thinking of taking off into the unknown of a huge wave
I fear it all right... but the rewards out weigh the pain if the conditions are clean.... like I said 8-10 ft is the biggest ive been out in... thats small to what is out there if you want it...
why are you talking to yourself Battery.... its taking the whole troll thing to a new and enbarassing level...you are ok without the alter egos baby- just let them go....let them goooo ...ooohhohhh...
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SNAP AWARDS 2012: INNAGRUAL WINNER OF THE SUPREME AWARD.
*edited 24 Jan 2013 16:52
Originally posted by: 2020grr im not battery 2020... grr lol anyway hey how do you over come fear in big waves,
why are you talking to yourself Battery.... its taking the whole troll thing to a new and enbarassing level...you are ok without the alter egos baby- just let them go....let them goooo ...ooohhohhh...
yeah I'm with batt too 6 to 8 is ok but crapping myself at later trouble at my beach is getting out when its big usually more daunting than the waves as it can be a solid 45min paddle or more only to find your still not quite out the back when the sets come.
wouldn't mind giving a point or bank like batt mentioned a nudge up to 10ft but would prob have lost my leggie string and fin key if it was any bigger
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Chairman of the sub 1000
Originally posted by: 2020
why are you talking to yourself Battery.... its taking the whole troll thing to a new and enbarassing level...you are ok without the alter egos baby- just let them go....let them goooo ...ooohhohhh...
Its so I can post up photos of my big wave exploits...
think only way to over come it is repetition. I find on days I'm crapping myself if I force myself to get one and it goes ok I then get more and more confident as session goes on.
if you don't make yourself paddle out then you never build the confidence, a friend to go out with is good too often I find with one of my mates ill see him get a bomb and go oh crap now I need to get one he sees me get one thinks the same then just spurs each other on to catch more.
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Chairman of the sub 1000
Originally posted by: Jabestrue most beach breaks hard to get out at size but points different,i fear when the wave smashes
yeah I'm with batt too 6 to 8 is ok but crapping myself at later trouble at my beach is getting out when its big usually more daunting than the waves as it can be a solid 45min paddle or more only to find your still not quite out the back when the sets come.
wouldn't mind giving a point or bank like batt mentioned a nudge up to 10ft but would prob have lost my leggie string and fin key if it was any bigger
down infront of me and trying the duckdive and getting ragdoll and losing board grr
Originally posted by: mrbrownstoneOriginally posted by: Batterywhen once when you were single, but now you have a family does that change your thinking of taking off into the unknown of a huge wave
I fear it all right... but the rewards out weigh the pain if the conditions are clean.... like I said 8-10 ft is the biggest ive been out in... thats small to what is out there if you want it...
Not really thinking about the family... more the fact that I'm unfit and brittle these days. yet again I'm not talking about HUGE waves just big.
Originally posted by: Jabestrue jabes... you are west coast so size you grow up in
think only way to over come it is repetition. I find on days I'm crapping myself if I force myself to get one and it goes ok I then get more and more confident as session goes on.
if you don't make yourself paddle out then you never build the confidence, a friend to go out with is good too often I find with one of my mates ill see him get a bomb and go oh crap now I need to get one he sees me get one thinks the same then just spurs each other on to catch more.
Originally posted by: mrbrownstone
*edited 24 Jan 2013 16:52Originally posted by: 2020grr im not battery 2020... grr lol anyway hey how do you over come fear in big waves,
why are you talking to yourself Battery.... its taking the whole troll thing to a new and enbarassing level...you are ok without the alter egos baby- just let them go....let them goooo ...ooohhohhh...
.... by watching from the safety of the beach...
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SNAP AWARDS 2012: INNAGRUAL WINNER OF THE SUPREME AWARD.
Originally posted by: Batterymind you battery... ive seen you on a longboard in solid surf and thats even more difficultOriginally posted by: mrbrownstoneOriginally posted by: Batterywhen once when you were single, but now you have a family does that change your thinking of taking off into the unknown of a huge wave
I fear it all right... but the rewards out weigh the pain if the conditions are clean.... like I said 8-10 ft is the biggest ive been out in... thats small to what is out there if you want it...
Not really thinking about the family... more the fact that I'm unfit and brittle these days. yet again I'm not talking about HUGE waves just big.
P!ss off troll... I know we have mutual friends aye
*edited 24 Jan 2013 17:18
*edited 24 Jan 2013 17:08
Originally posted by: Batterylol pipe fins...,storm fins ...much lol ?and my uncle bp
P!ss off troll... I know we have mutual friends aye
Thinly veiled "Batts trying to convince us he's not brownsword" thread.
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Local at nowhere, eternal blow in.
Id hate to inform you Utah, Im actually not that much of a sad prick...
Originally posted by: Jtahgrr jabes... i was at patti point and someone waxed my back window of car,and had the name battery... on window grr and had to drive to waimate grr
Thinly veiled "Batts trying to convince us he's not brownsword" thread.
Originally posted by: Battery
Id hate to inform you Utah, Im actually not that much of a sad prick...
Almost tho aye
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Local at nowhere, eternal blow in.
*edited 24 Jan 2013 17:28
Originally posted by: JtahOriginally posted by: Battery
Id hate to inform you Utah, Im actually not that much of a sad prick...
Almost tho aye
nearly phew? opps wrong avata lol...
Originally posted by: JtahOriginally posted by: Battery
Id hate to inform you Utah, Im actually not that much of a sad prick...
Almost tho aye
Lets race aye Utah... first one to get a troll wins
Depends on location......a 6-8ft west coast beachy on a solid long period swell can get pretty intimidating but then put the same waves on a point and it's a lot easier to be comfortable in....The drop doesn't intimidate me as I know I can nail 95% of em.....it's the paddle back through the impact zone that tweaks me out........but yeah Feel the fear and own it...push through it and you'll get the most memorable waves of your life........personally I've never hit anything over 10 ft and prefer to surf 4-6 ft where I am still comfortable smashing it.
*edited 24 Jan 2013 17:44
Originally posted by: L8dropcool l8drop... what makes you overcome you say the paddle back out,true what do you think on the paddle back out when that wave smashes infront of you,and your duckdive is the most important thing in your life for a few seconds,i hate that bit aye.
Depends on location......a 6-8ft west coast beachy on a solid long period swell can get pretty intimidating but then put the same waves on a point and it's a lot easier to be comfortable in....The drop doesn't intimidate me as I know I can nail 95% of em.....it's the paddle back through the impact zone that tweaks me out........but yeah Feel the fear and own it...push through it and you'll get the most memorable waves of your life........personally I've never hit anything over 10 ft and prefer to surf 4-6 ft where I am still comfortable smashing it.
I think....deep....dive real deep....hahaha....which sux when your on a three foot deep base........heaviest waves I ever surfed were at solid Fiji Pipe....2-3 ft of water under you and solid six foot of swell......got the heaviest hold down of my life there
You would surf anything if ya amped enough.
Originally posted by: L8droptrue that l8drop... smaller swell on a reef at 2 or 3 feet less water on reef can hurt more than 5 foot my uncle bp... says to me aye
I think....deep....dive real deep....hahaha....which sux when your on a three foot deep base........heaviest waves I ever surfed were at solid Fiji Pipe....2-3 ft of water under you and solid six foot of swell......got the heaviest hold down of my life there
Originally posted by: Elbacyabcool elbacyab... whats your fear how big is to big for you,when you think man its pretty heavy how do i get to shore without a beatdown ?
You would surf anything if ya amped enough.
Truth be told im more afraid of smaller days over shallow reef. Thats heavy
Originally posted by: mrbrownstoneOriginally posted by: L8droptrue that l8drop... smaller swell on a reef at 2 or 3 feet less water on reef can hurt more than 5 foot my uncle bp... says to me aye
I think....deep....dive real deep....hahaha....which sux when your on a three foot deep base........heaviest waves I ever surfed were at solid Fiji Pipe....2-3 ft of water under you and solid six foot of swell......got the heaviest hold down of my life there
Yep.
Originally posted by: Elbacyabelbacyab...coolOriginally posted by: mrbrownstoneOriginally posted by: L8droptrue that l8drop... smaller swell on a reef at 2 or 3 feet less water on reef can hurt more than 5 foot my uncle bp... says to me aye
I think....deep....dive real deep....hahaha....which sux when your on a three foot deep base........heaviest waves I ever surfed were at solid Fiji Pipe....2-3 ft of water under you and solid six foot of swell......got the heaviest hold down of my life there
Yep.
ive tow surfed 10-12 and it was almost easy, until you wiped out,
biggest ive paddled in is 6-8 and thats about it
trying to paddle into anything above 6ft is a mission without the right puerto escondido board for the job.
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Those are people who die die. They were all my friends, and they died.
Cold water, unfit, big surf, guaranteed beatdowns. Basically big winter Kahutara. Big waves are so much easier to deal with if the water is warm and you aren't being held back by heaps of rubber. Makes what those guys do at Papatowai pretty impressive.
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Former surf.co rark judge
Originally posted by: marko sharkoyea true marko...
Cold water, unfit, big surf, guaranteed beatdowns. Basically big winter Kahutara. Big waves are so much easier to deal with if the water is warm and you aren't being held back by heaps of rubber. Makes what those guys do at Papatowai pretty impressive.
Originally posted by: L8drop
I think....deep....dive real deep....hahaha....which sux when your on a three foot deep base........heaviest waves I ever surfed were at solid Fiji Pipe....2-3 ft of water under you and solid six foot of swell......got the heaviest hold down of my life there
Is that off the coast from waidroka on the main island? I was there about 10 years ago and there was a spot they were calling pipe west from the resort. Got the living sh1t beat out of me out there.
Originally posted by: marko sharko
Cold water, unfit, big surf, guaranteed beatdowns. Basically big winter Kahutara. Big waves are so much easier to deal with if the water is warm and you aren't being held back by heaps of rubber. Makes what those guys do at Papatowai pretty impressive.
Agreed. Then there is all the sitting around waiting for the right wave, and not getting sucked to deep or getting pushed inside from all the water moving around.
Then there is big barreling waves or big fat waves....
when you're unfit, everything over two foot is big.
Agreed BC
I have issues.sometimes no problems other times I can't control the rush.
Shape and perfection will best size for me. Ilk chase swells but surf where it will handle it. I hate west six when it's big you know you are always going to pay your dues
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If you can't surf it, F&$k it!
we all have issues i reckon some more pronounced than others. I get disappointed when somewhere is good yet huge and hard to get out and I opt for the crowded option cause its more manageable. I have been known to drive home in disgust in myself afterwards and wallow in a depressive state till the next day of swell. if the next day is flat, its slit wrist time haha
*edited 24 Jan 2013 21:34
this is a good topic I clicked on it with trepidation thinking it might be jelly telling up about one of his prison romances
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Chairman of the sub 1000
or one of spuds conundrums at the cruisers...that's what I thought. Those g unit holes are like a box of chocolates.
Are you saying you have surfed akls west coast 6-8ft jabes?
My whole time out there I've only seen 1 day it was that size and people were actually out back. Maybe 5 were out surfing it. And those guys were getting drilled but pulling into huge close out pits. Basically it wasn't surfable they were just good surfers who were obviously pretty fit and there was a bit of a channel out running along caves.
In fact the amount of times west is even remotely surfable at 6ft is minimal.
I'm happy to admit I'm not a big wave guru. 2-4ft is my zone. The biggest Ive been out in was balangan and then indicators. I don't know how big, but over 6ft.
I have never surfed bigger than 6ft out west akl and not many are silly enough to claim they have. It's a place to get used to strong rips and heavy waves but not to learn the art of big wave surfing.
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SNAP awards 2012 tees http://surf.co.nz/forum/surfing-buy-sell/3843/
Hey Snap!! BOOM, first post back and he's ripping into someone... You need to chill bro, it's a new era of positivity around here at the mo... BP and BC are even facebook buddies again.
So when we say 6-8 how big are we talking???
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Local at nowhere, eternal blow in.
it all comes back to effort vs gain.
if you paddle out in 6 foot plus you burn most fo your energy on the initial first paddle out and realistically your only gonna get maximum 1 wave per half hour anyway.
you gotta be way more selective cos a bad wave choice can mean the end of your surf...
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Those are people who die die. They were all my friends, and they died.
Originally posted by: SNAP
Are you saying you have surfed akls west coast 6-8ft jabes?
My whole time out there I've only seen 1 day it was that size and people were actually out back. Maybe 5 were out surfing it. And those guys were getting drilled but pulling into huge close out pits. Basically it wasn't surfable they were just good surfers who were obviously pretty fit and there was a bit of a channel out running along caves.
In fact the amount of times west is even remotely surfable at 6ft is minimal.
I'm happy to admit I'm not a big wave guru. 2-4ft is my zone. The biggest Ive been out in was balangan and then indicators. I don't know how big, but over 6ft.
I have never surfed bigger than 6ft out west akl and not many are silly enough to claim they have. It's a place to get used to strong rips and heavy waves but not to learn the art of big wave surfing.
surfed west at 6ft plenty of times and a few times over the years that i would say was a genuine 6-8ft which was surfable mostly its not but every now and again the planets align the swell period is right and its fine to surf even tho most dont bother as "its too big for the banks" So dont even come out to the beach I have a few pics i could show you next time your out this way but i'd be lynched if they were put into the public eye
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Chairman of the sub 1000
http://www.facebook.com/video/embed?video_id=1077267525877 [facebook.com]]some bigger footge
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Those are people who die die. They were all my friends, and they died.
Originally posted by: Jtah
So when we say 6-8 how big are we talking???
I would say double to triple over head is what I mean when I say it
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Chairman of the sub 1000
i would call 7 ft top of a basketball hoop backboard
Originally posted by: Battery
Hey Snap!! BOOM, first post back and he's ripping into someone... You need to chill bro, it's a new era of positivity around here at the mo... BP and BC are even facebook buddies again.
What have you done to this place. Even bc has turned into a weakling.
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SNAP awards 2012 tees http://surf.co.nz/forum/surfing-buy-sell/3843/
nice drop nell. just to clarify though you aint calling that 8ft i hope?
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SNAP awards 2012 tees http://surf.co.nz/forum/surfing-buy-sell/3843/
I woke up and was compelled to see the surf co...snap its called evolution. Don't make me come over there you farkin closet hipster, I like this new you but you forget...I'm a bad motherfarker. are you are going to be leaving us for another few months to beat the heat?
I am on another plane, plans are materialising, sociological experiences....hows that tame empala aye? farkin sick.
Originally posted by: Nell-E
http://www.facebook.com/video/embed?video_id=1077267525877 [facebook.com]]some bigger footge
4ft. that is only bigger surf for Nelson.
Originally posted by: SNAPOriginally posted by: Battery
Hey Snap!! BOOM, first post back and he's ripping into someone... You need to chill bro, it's a new era of positivity around here at the mo... BP and BC are even facebook buddies again.
What have you done to this place. Even bc has turned into a weakling.
Its like fighting over a point bag of meth with a ex-pro cage fighter addicted to crack... not much point really... he's going to win.
Originally posted by: BatteryOriginally posted by: Nell-E
http://www.facebook.com/video/embed?video_id=1077267525877 [facebook.com]]some bigger footge
4ft. that is only bigger surf for Nelson.
call it 6ft on take off mellowing to 5...
..... its bigger than it looks
and it is blenheim
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Those are people who die die. They were all my friends, and they died.