Search

Recent Articles

A fertile mind

Read Article

Campfires

Read Article

Related Articles

Size counts

Read Article

Elements

Read Article

Inspired

Read Article

The back paddock

Read Article


Comment Share Posted on Wednesday December 19th 2012 at 7:09 p.m.

My mate Steve goes on and on about this mythical wave that breaks once in a blue moon, "but when it does you want to be on it", he reckons. I've checked it about 200 times and nada ... not a chance ... nothing ... not even a vaguely surfable section.

Steve will often recite tales of long righthanders off this point and big days where it rivals any point break in the country. Usually he has surfed it by himself and has nobody to collaborate his story, thus perpetuating the theory that perhaps he is exaggerating the length, size and beauty of this wave.

He has even called me on days when he think it will be okay and I scramble there eagerly only to find it isn't breaking or even looking like breaking - or it is too big and unruly and closing out the bay.

  • Thursday, 8:30pm: Sometimes even close-outs are beautiful Thursday, 8:30pm: Sometimes even close-outs are beautiful Buy this print

Eventually I began to reason that Steve just liked the fact that his house sits right above this wave and he had convinced himself that he lived next to the best thing since J-Bay was discovered.

I had written it off as a figment in Steve's imagination.

<&rt;1/6 Photos

  • Friday, 11:24am: Chris and Indhu all the way from York, UK, to learn to surf Friday, 11:24am: Chris and Indhu all the way from York, UK, to learn to surf Buy this print
  • Saturday, 12:20pm: Dropping into the Mt Cargill mist during the Urge 3 Peaks Enduro Saturday, 12:20pm: Dropping into the Mt Cargill mist during the Urge 3 Peaks Enduro Buy this print
  • Thursday, 7:21pm: TB buries it at Middles Thursday, 7:21pm: TB buries it at Middles Buy this print
  • Thursday, 8:18pm: Loving these long, groomed walls this week [ Thursday, 8:18pm: Loving these long, groomed walls this week [ Buy this print
  • Thursday, 7:29pm: Rike and Sabrina, of Germany, try a bit of surfing at Middles Thursday, 7:29pm: Rike and Sabrina, of Germany, try a bit of surfing at Middles Buy this print
  • Thursday, 8:52pm: Stacks of swell lines, setting sun ... someone pinch me! Thursday, 8:52pm: Stacks of swell lines, setting sun ... someone pinch me! Buy this print

Then, last week, Steve's claims were justified in truly spectacular fashion. While cruising the coast shooting photos one evening I stumbled across a right point that left me speechless. No one was out and it was kind of nice just to watch set after set pour through with huge golden plumes and big, open, empty barrels.

Sorry for doubting you, Steve. This really is a fickle, but beautiful wave to behold.

On behalf of the team at Dunedin Light we wish all of our subscribers a holiday season filled with good times and lots of beach time.

See you at the beach ...
- Derek
PS Got your Dunedin Light Seasons book ordered yet? Last orders for shipping before Xmas within NZ: December 19.

Dunedin Light is your weekly dose of stoke from the surf lifestyle and culture of Dunedin's beaches. To find out more visit: www.dunedinlight.com

 

Post your comment